1.  The biggest problem people have encountered is with the camera setting(s).  They don't turn on the remote receive in their camera or they set the time the remote is active to a short duration. Thus, the remote appears to work for a while (or not work at all) and then stops when actuality the camera has stopped seeing the remote.   In the D70, ( the camera we use for testing each remote before it leaves our company) you have to turn on the remote sensor via a menu setting accessed with one of the buttons on the rear of the camera and set the time duration the sensor is left on for the appropriate amount of time.  This feature resets itself every time you turn on or off the camera.  So make sure the camera is set to see the sensor before you try to use the remote.

2.  The second issue comes from not being able to trip the camera from the rear or sides of the camera.   Since the sensor is located in the front of the camera, the best results are achieved from in front of the camera.  For the camera in the studio, I built a "light pipe" made from clear plexi-glass and attached it to the red cover of the sensor with VHB clear tape ( a 3M product ).  This is a good solution for the studio where the camera is not getting knocked about (as much). I have, also, positioned the camera near a wall where the light from the remote bounces off the wall to hit the sensor at the front of the camera.  An appropriately aimed mirror could achieve the same goal.  This is the reason we offer a  "remote trip" for an additional $5.00.  This is a set of contacts made available to the outside of the remote control so you can mount the remote in front of the camera and have a hand operated switch at the end of a cord to fire the remote.  This is like having a long cable release to fire the camera, especially good for portraiture of kids because you can hide your hand with the button behind you and the subject doesn't know when you are "activating" the shutter.

3.  We have yet to have any complaints about the next item, but I could imagine that there could be an issue with the battery holder in the future especially if you have to change batteries often.  The battery holder we are using was made for one 2032 battery ( and the remote will work with this battery at a reduced range )  We needed to have to two 3 Volt batteries ( a total of 6 Volts) to produce the output to achieve the range for the remote.  So we had to coat the inside, sides of the holder with a lacquer to prevent shorting of the batteries and this coating could wear-off.  Fingernail polish is what we use and you can carefully recoat the inside of the battery holder if and when this becomes an issue. WARNING - DO NOT USE NAILPOLISH WITH METAL FLAKES OR CONTUCTIVE POLISH - THIS WILL CERTAINLY CAUSE A DANGEROUS SHORT   Or --- you can send it back to us to do and we will just charge you for the postage to return the remote to you.

If you have any suggestions, please email us and when they are reviewed by us and seem to be of value for our customers we will post them here.  Email:  k3rzd (at) ingram-tech.com  Thank You - George Ingram, K3RZD